Inside Milan’s historic Triennale di Milano (the same destination for Gucci’s Spring 2025 menswear show in June) on Friday, Sabato de Sarno delivered his womenswear manifesto on an Ancora-tinged runway for next year’s warmer months. In the fore of the front row’s Dakota Johnson, Kirsten Dunst, Raye, Jin and more, and against a soundtrack by Mark Ronson and Julian Dobson, the designer’s grandiose fashion brigade marched through the museum’s corridors, championing the legacy Italian brand’s heritage through the thematic lens of obsession.
The most obsessed-over Gucci products are the House’s leather bags; and among them, the Gucci Bamboo 1947 — a leather shoulder pouch with a hand-curved bamboo handle — is a crowd favorite. Here, De Sarno brought back the hero accessory in its original form, with subtle contemporary tweaks done by the brand’s artisans with leather, lacquer and Plexiglas. Notably, another edition of the classic arm candy was reimagined by Japanese artists in celebration of Gucci’s 60th year in Japan.
Elsewhere, bamboo details punched myriad mini accessories, and Gucci’s treasured Horsebit motif drew eyes to not only its 73 Bucket Bag but also a legion of footwear: platforms, creepers, ballerinas, and ankle boots included. Lots of tradition to obsess over for longtime Gucci fans, indeed.
De Sarno’s ready-to-wear was galvanized by the ’60s, with architectural coats, A-line skirts and shorts infusing the era’s elements of Space Age sophistication, Swinging London’s youthfulness and Jackie Kennedy’s class. The GG monogram commanded formal coats, which were kept casually grandeur in the same breath as tank tops and denim. Leather silhouettes acted as powerful armor, while lace dresses (and peeks of lingerie) flaunted the Gucci woman’s femininity. Overall, the color story — Gucci Rosso Ancora, lime green, citrusy orange, white and grey — was equal parts expressive and demure.
To the beat of Fiordaliso’s “Non Voglio Mica La Luna,” De Sarno’s Spring 2025 womenswear collection made a final round through the venue in unison. “A precise moment in time,” the designer called it. “A moment to seize and live to the fullest.” Perhaps De Sarno’s decision to breathe new life into some of Gucci’s historically most adored silhouettes will aid in his quest to resuscitate the House’s former fiscal glory — to the fullest.
See Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week coverage.