Where is Jil Sander taking us for SS25? With antique floral carpeting enclosed by dark velvet curtains, the runway seems to evoke an old hotel corridor in an ambiguous timeline. It sets the scene for the era-agnostic 70-look range.
The show opened with a strong run of bold-shouldered tailoring, made in ghostly iridescent fabrics. Spouses and co-creative directors of the brand Luke and Lucie Meiers referred back to the power-dressing styles Jil Sander introduced in the 80’s by emphasizing boxy and oversized fits. What would otherwise be a typical range of neutral suiting from the brand was illuminated with gentle glows of purple, magenta, orange, and yellow under the runway’s light.
Breaking from a more austere opening, the pastel tones reappeared on styles reminiscent of turn-of-the-20th-century fashion with a decidedly feminine sensibility. Round-collared blouses and flapper-esque ensembles in lustrous satin were accompanied by ornamental trims and details like floral appliques, doily vents, and ruffled hems. An aged yellow resembling patinated plastic was present across several looks as well, leaning further into the feel of bygone times.
Just when the viewer may have assumed the collection rested on this antique glam, they were pulled into a familiar postmodern era tinged with electric color. Photographic prints recalling Luke Meier’s previous work at OAMC injected the range with a refreshing contemporary edge, like a stand-out print depicting a mysterious retro car glowing under green-tinted fluorescent lighting. Postmodern touches also appeared in accessories like chrome studded black leather bags and python print footwear. Finally, a saturated burst of blood orange was smeared across several closing looks, including a patent leather trench coat, seemingly signaling the break of a new dawn or a the start of foreboding future.
Take a look at all the looks from Jil Sander SS25 in the above gallery, and stay posted for more Milan Fashion Week updates from Hypebeast.